Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips
MORICHON, Denis
Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
SOUS, Damien
Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO]
< Leer menos
Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO]
Idioma
EN
Article de revue
Este ítem está publicado en
Journal of Coastal Research. 2020, vol. 95, n° sp1, p. 578
Resumen en inglés
Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against ...Leer más >
Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time-and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-lowfrequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure.< Leer menos
Palabras clave en inglés
Field experiment
nearshore circulations
headland rip
vertical structure
Centros de investigación