On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics
Langue
EN
Article de revue
Ce document a été publié dans
Ocean Dynamics. 2018, vol. 68, p. 899-909
Résumé en anglais
The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate ...Lire la suite >
The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.< Réduire
Mots clés en anglais
Nearshore
Beach cusps
Reflection
Edge wave
Surf-swash interactions
Low-tide terraced beach
SWASH model
Radon transform
Rip current