Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | BONNETON, Philippe | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Institut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux [IMB] | |
| dc.contributor.author | LANNES, David | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-04-04T03:08:48Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-04-04T03:08:48Z | |
| dc.date.created | 2017 | |
| dc.date.issued | 2017 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 0022-1120 | |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/193560 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport. | |
| dc.description.sponsorship | DYnamique des Fluides, Couches Limites, Tourbillons et Interfaces - ANR-13-BS01-0003 | |
| dc.description.sponsorship | Frontières, numérique, dispersion. - ANR-13-BS01-0009 | |
| dc.language.iso | en | |
| dc.publisher | Cambridge University Press (CUP) | |
| dc.title.en | Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1017/jfm.2017.666 | |
| dc.subject.hal | Physique [physics]/Mécanique [physics]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph] | |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère | |
| dc.identifier.arxiv | 1709.06457 | |
| bordeaux.journal | Journal of Fluid Mechanics | |
| bordeaux.page | 399-429 | |
| bordeaux.volume | 833 | |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | Institut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux (IMB) - UMR 5251 | * |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | |
| bordeaux.institution | Bordeaux INP | |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | |
| bordeaux.team | METHYS | |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | |
| hal.identifier | hal-01588687 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | |
| hal.audience | Internationale | |
| hal.origin.link | https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr//hal-01588687v1 | |
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