Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements
Langue
en
Article de revue
Ce document a été publié dans
Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 2017, vol. 833, p. 399-429
Cambridge University Press (CUP)
Résumé en anglais
The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of ...Lire la suite >
The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.< Réduire
Project ANR
DYnamique des Fluides, Couches Limites, Tourbillons et Interfaces - ANR-13-BS01-0003
Frontières, numérique, dispersion. - ANR-13-BS01-0009
Frontières, numérique, dispersion. - ANR-13-BS01-0009
Origine
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