Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness‐varying barrier reef
| dc.rights.license | open | en_US |
| hal.structure.identifier | Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME] | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO] | |
| dc.contributor.author | SOUS, Damien | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MARTINS, Kevin | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Géosciences Montpellier | |
| dc.contributor.author | BOUCHETTE, Frédéric | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Centre Européen de Recherche et d'Enseignement des Géosciences de l'Environnement [CEREGE] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MEULÉ, Samuel | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-02-14T14:29:36Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-02-14T14:29:36Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2023 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 0094-8276 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188138 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds. | |
| dc.language.iso | EN | en_US |
| dc.subject.en | coral reef | |
| dc.subject.en | bottom friction | |
| dc.subject.en | spectral dissipation | |
| dc.title.en | Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness‐varying barrier reef | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1029/2022GL102104 | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géophysique [physics.geo-ph] | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographie | en_US |
| bordeaux.journal | Geophysical Research Letters | en_US |
| bordeaux.page | e2022GL102104 | en_US |
| bordeaux.volume | 50 | en_US |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
| bordeaux.issue | 5 | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | en_US |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | en_US |
| bordeaux.inpress | non | en_US |
| bordeaux.import.source | hal | |
| hal.identifier | hal-03933180 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | en_US |
| hal.audience | Internationale | en_US |
| hal.export | false | |
| workflow.import.source | hal | |
| dc.rights.cc | Pas de Licence CC | en_US |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Geophysical%20Research%20Letters&rft.date=2023&rft.volume=50&rft.issue=5&rft.spage=e2022GL102104&rft.epage=e2022GL102104&rft.eissn=0094-8276&rft.issn=0094-8276&rft.au=SOUS,%20Damien&MARTINS,%20Kevin&BOUCHETTE,%20Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric&MEUL%C3%89,%20Samuel&rft.genre=article |
