SOUS, Damien; MARTINS, Kevin; BOUCHETTE, Frédéric; MEULÉ, Samuel

doi:10.1029/2022GL102104

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SOUS, Damien
Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO]

MARTINS, Kevin

Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]

BOUCHETTE, Frédéric
Géosciences Montpellier

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Geophysical Research Letters. 2023, vol. 50, n° 5, p. e2022GL102104

Resumen en inglés

The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds.< Leer menos

Palabras clave en inglés

coral reef

bottom friction

spectral dissipation