Wave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions
hal.structure.identifier | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM] | |
dc.contributor.author | NICOLAE LERMA, Alexandre | |
hal.structure.identifier | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM] | |
dc.contributor.author | PEDREROS, Rodrigo | |
hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
dc.contributor.author | SENECHAL, Nadia
IDREF: 077248430 | |
dc.date.accessioned | 2024-05-14T13:23:23Z | |
dc.date.available | 2024-05-14T13:23:23Z | |
dc.date.created | 2015-12-10 | |
dc.date.issued | 2016-03-06 | |
dc.identifier.issn | 0749-0208 | |
dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/199831 | |
dc.description.abstractEn | This study assessed the ability of the SWASH model to reproduce wave set-up and run-up on complex realistic 3D morphology during highly dissipative stormy conditions, based on the most energetic field data set reported in the bibliography (ECORS-Truc Vert’08 beach experiment). Several approaches (1D and 2D) and forcing methods (spectral and parametric) were applied. For the three days of high-energy conditions caused by the Johanna storm, wave set-up was accurately reproduced, with simulation performance in 1D and 2D at R² = 0.66, 0.81 respectively for all data considered; RMSE = 0.13 m, 0.08 m; bias = 0.06, -0.02. Run-up in the 1D configuration is significantly overestimated while in 2D, the reproduction of run-up using spectral forcing was very accurate with R² = 0.73; RMSE = 0.19; bias = 0.04, underlining the role of spectral frequency and directional spread to precisely reproduce the surf zone processes during a storm on a complex barred beach. The maximum estimated values for set-up, run-up and spatial variability of run-up are comparable with results from previous studies, even though significantly higher offshore wave conditions. These results support the hypothesis of a run-up saturation signature in dissipative contexts, mainly influenced by extreme offshore wave conditions. | |
dc.language.iso | en | |
dc.publisher | Coastal Education and Research Foundation | |
dc.subject.en | Surf zone process | |
dc.subject.en | 3D bathymetry | |
dc.subject.en | SWASH model | |
dc.subject.en | wave set-up | |
dc.subject.en | run-up | |
dc.title.en | Wave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions | |
dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.2112/SI75-177.1 | |
dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géomorphologie | |
dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère | |
bordeaux.journal | Journal of Coastal Research | en_US |
bordeaux.page | 882-886 | |
bordeaux.volume | Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). | |
bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
bordeaux.issue | No. 75 | |
bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | |
bordeaux.institution | CNRS | |
bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | |
bordeaux.import.source | hal | |
hal.identifier | hal-01256646 | |
hal.version | 1 | |
hal.popular | non | |
hal.audience | Internationale | |
hal.export | false | |
workflow.import.source | hal | |
dc.rights.cc | Pas de Licence CC | en_US |
bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Coastal%20Research&rft.date=2016-03-06&rft.volume=Proceedings%20of%20the%2014th%20International%20Coastal%20Symposium%20(Sydney,%20Australia).&rft.issue=No.%2075&rft.spage=882-886&rft.epage=882-886&rft.eissn=0749-0208&rft.issn=0749-0208&rft.au=NICOLAE%20LERMA,%20Alexandre&PEDREROS,%20Rodrigo&SENECHAL,%20Nadia&rft.genre=article |
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