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hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
hal.structure.identifierInstitut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux [IMB]
dc.contributor.authorLANNES, David
dc.date.accessioned2024-04-04T03:08:48Z
dc.date.available2024-04-04T03:08:48Z
dc.date.created2017
dc.date.issued2017
dc.identifier.issn0022-1120
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/193560
dc.description.abstractEnThe reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.
dc.description.sponsorshipDYnamique des Fluides, Couches Limites, Tourbillons et Interfaces - ANR-13-BS01-0003
dc.description.sponsorshipFrontières, numérique, dispersion. - ANR-13-BS01-0009
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherCambridge University Press (CUP)
dc.title.enRecovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements
dc.typeArticle de revue
dc.identifier.doi10.1017/jfm.2017.666
dc.subject.halPhysique [physics]/Mécanique [physics]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère
dc.identifier.arxiv1709.06457
bordeaux.journalJournal of Fluid Mechanics
bordeaux.page399-429
bordeaux.volume833
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesInstitut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux (IMB) - UMR 5251*
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeaux
bordeaux.institutionBordeaux INP
bordeaux.institutionCNRS
bordeaux.teamMETHYS
bordeaux.peerReviewedoui
hal.identifierhal-01588687
hal.version1
hal.popularnon
hal.audienceInternationale
hal.origin.linkhttps://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr//hal-01588687v1
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