Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MARTINS, Kévin | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | BONNETON, Philippe | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Institut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux [IMB] | |
| dc.contributor.author | LANNES, David | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] [LEGI] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MICHALLET, Hervé | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-04-04T02:41:10Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-04-04T02:41:10Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2021-11-19 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 0022-3670 | |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/191127 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | The inability of the linear wave dispersion relation to characterize the dispersive properties of non-linear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognised. Yet, it remains widely used with linear wave theory to convert between sub-surface pressure, wave orbital velocities and the free surface elevation associated with non-linear nearshore waves. Here, we present a non-linear fully dispersive method for reconstructing the free surface elevation from sub-surface hydrodynamic measurements. This reconstruction requires knowledge of the dispersive properties of the wave field through the dominant wavenumbers magnitude κ , representative in an energy-averaged sense of a mixed sea-state composed of both free and forced components. The present approach is effective starting from intermediate water depths - where non-linear interactions between triads intensify - up to the surf zone, where most wave components are forced and travel approximately at the speed of non-dispersive shallow-water waves. In laboratory conditions, where measurements of κ are available, the non-linear fully dispersive method successfully reconstructs sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies in diverse non-linear and dispersive conditions. In the field, we investigate the potential of a reconstruction that uses a Boussinesq approximation of κ , since such measurements are generally lacking. Overall, the proposed approach offers great potential for collecting more accurate measurements under storm conditions, both in terms of sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies and wave-by-wave statistics ( e.g. wave extrema). Through its control on the efficiency of non-linear energy transfers between triads, the spectral bandwidth is shown to greatly influence non-linear effects in the transfer functions between sub-surface hydrodynamics and the sea-surface elevation. | |
| dc.language.iso | en | |
| dc.publisher | American Meteorological Society | |
| dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ | |
| dc.title.en | Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1175/JPO-D-21-0061.1 | |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère | |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographie | |
| dc.subject.hal | Informatique [cs]/Modélisation et simulation | |
| dc.subject.hal | Informatique [cs]/Traitement du signal et de l'image | |
| bordeaux.journal | Journal of Physical Oceanography | |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | Institut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux (IMB) - UMR 5251 | * |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | |
| bordeaux.institution | Bordeaux INP | |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | |
| hal.identifier | hal-03450890 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | |
| hal.audience | Internationale | |
| hal.origin.link | https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr//hal-03450890v1 | |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Physical%20Oceanography&rft.date=2021-11-19&rft.eissn=0022-3670&rft.issn=0022-3670&rft.au=MARTINS,%20K%C3%A9vin&BONNETON,%20Philippe&LANNES,%20David&MICHALLET,%20Herv%C3%A9&rft.genre=article |
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