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Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMOURAGUES, Arthur
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARIEU, Vincent
dc.contributor.authorBARRETT, Aaron
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Natalie
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorDETAND, Guillaume
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
hal.structure.identifierPlymouth University
dc.contributor.authorMCCARROLL, Jak
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
dc.contributor.authorMORICHON, Denis
hal.structure.identifierPlymouth University
dc.contributor.authorPOATE, Timothy
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorRODRIGUEZ PADILLA, Isaac
hal.structure.identifierPlymouth University
dc.contributor.authorSCOTT, Tim
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique [SIAME]
hal.structure.identifierInstitut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO]
dc.contributor.authorSOUS, Damien
dc.date.accessioned2024-04-03T13:20:07Z
dc.date.available2024-04-03T13:20:07Z
dc.date.issued2020
dc.identifier.issn0749-0208en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/189160
dc.description.abstractEnMost of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time-and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-lowfrequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.subject.enField experiment
dc.subject.ennearshore circulations
dc.subject.enheadland rip
dc.subject.envertical structure
dc.title.enField Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.2112/si95-113.1en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Coastal Researchen_US
bordeaux.page578en_US
bordeaux.volume95en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issuesp1en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-03044435
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Coastal%20Research&rft.date=2020&rft.volume=95&rft.issue=sp1&rft.spage=578&rft.epage=578&rft.eissn=0749-0208&rft.issn=0749-0208&rft.au=MOURAGUES,%20Arthur&BONNETON,%20Philippe&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&MARIEU,%20Vincent&BARRETT,%20Aaron&rft.genre=article


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