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On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics
| dc.rights.license | open | en_US |
| hal.structure.identifier | Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales [LEGOS] | |
| dc.contributor.author | ALMAR, Rafael | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM] | |
| dc.contributor.author | NICOLAE LERMA, Alexandre | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | CASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520 | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Plymouth University | |
| dc.contributor.author | SCOTT, Timothy | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-03-13T09:58:19Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-03-13T09:58:19Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2018 | |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188764 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents. | |
| dc.language.iso | EN | en_US |
| dc.subject.en | Nearshore | |
| dc.subject.en | Beach cusps | |
| dc.subject.en | Reflection | |
| dc.subject.en | Edge wave | |
| dc.subject.en | Surf-swash interactions | |
| dc.subject.en | Low-tide terraced beach | |
| dc.subject.en | SWASH model | |
| dc.subject.en | Radon transform | |
| dc.subject.en | Rip current | |
| dc.title.en | On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1007/s10236-018-1165-5 | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics] | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographie | en_US |
| bordeaux.journal | Ocean Dynamics | en_US |
| bordeaux.page | 899-909 | en_US |
| bordeaux.volume | 68 | en_US |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | en_US |
| bordeaux.team | METHYS | en_US |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | en_US |
| bordeaux.inpress | non | en_US |
| bordeaux.import.source | hal | |
| hal.identifier | insu-03670738 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | en_US |
| hal.audience | Internationale | en_US |
| hal.export | false | |
| workflow.import.source | hal | |
| dc.rights.cc | Pas de Licence CC | en_US |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Ocean%20Dynamics&rft.date=2018&rft.volume=68&rft.spage=899-909&rft.epage=899-909&rft.au=ALMAR,%20Rafael&NICOLAE%20LERMA,%20Alexandre&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&SCOTT,%20Timothy&rft.genre=article |
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