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Morphological changes in a cuspate sandy beach under persistent high-energy swells: Reñaca Beach (Chile)

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierPontificia Universidad Católica de Chile [UC]
hal.structure.identifierUniversidad Catolica Del Maule
hal.structure.identifierCentro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres [CIGIDEN ]
dc.contributor.authorAGREDANO, R.
hal.structure.identifierPontificia Universidad Católica de Chile [UC]
hal.structure.identifierCentro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres [CIGIDEN ]
hal.structure.identifierMarine Energy Research & Innovation Center [Santiago] [MERIC]
dc.contributor.authorCIENFUEGOS, R.
hal.structure.identifierCentro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres [CIGIDEN ]
hal.structure.identifierUniversidad Tecnica Federico Santa Maria [Valparaiso] [UTFSM]
dc.contributor.authorCATALÁN, P
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire de Mecanique des Fluides et d'Acoustique [LMFA]
dc.contributor.authorMIGNOT, Emmanuel
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Natalie
hal.structure.identifierCentro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres [CIGIDEN ]
hal.structure.identifierPontificia Universidad Católica de Chile [UC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTÍNEZ, C.
dc.date.accessioned2024-02-27T08:56:40Z
dc.date.available2024-02-27T08:56:40Z
dc.date.issued2019-11-01
dc.identifier.issn0025-3227en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188449
dc.description.abstractEnThe present work proposes a morphological evolution model for sandy cuspate beaches, which depends on two parameters, swash excursion (S) and offshore wave steepness (H0/L0). The model was derived from observations of morphology and wave climate at Reñaca Beach in central Chile, comprising in-situ instrumentation, topographic surveys, wave modeling, and optical imagery. It was found that wave steepness alone was unable to explain the morphological changes observed on the beach. Rather, results indicate that swash excursion is better to distinguish between erosive and accretionary events, with swash excursion exceeding 29.5 m for more than 12 h being indicative of erosive events. While morphological changes are led by S, wave steepness correlates with the erosive potential of waves, especially when H0/L0 is greater than 0.017. Although derived for a specific beach under a limited range of conditions, this work adds to the understanding of the dynamic behavior of beaches exposed to persistent high-energy swells.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.rights.urihttp://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/licences/copyright/
dc.title.enMorphological changes in a cuspate sandy beach under persistent high-energy swells: Reñaca Beach (Chile)
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.margeo.2019.105988en_US
dc.subject.halSciences de l'ingénieur [physics]/Mécanique [physics.med-ph]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]en_US
dc.subject.halSciences de l'environnement/Biodiversité et Ecologieen_US
bordeaux.journalMarine Geologyen_US
bordeaux.page105988en_US
bordeaux.volume417en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-03828970
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Marine%20Geology&rft.date=2019-11-01&rft.volume=417&rft.spage=105988&rft.epage=105988&rft.eissn=0025-3227&rft.issn=0025-3227&rft.au=AGREDANO,%20R.&CIENFUEGOS,%20R.&CATAL%C3%81N,%20P&MIGNOT,%20Emmanuel&BONNETON,%20Philippe&rft.genre=article


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