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dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] [LEGI]
dc.contributor.authorMICHALLET, Herve
dc.date.accessioned2024-02-07T11:49:22Z
dc.date.available2024-02-07T11:49:22Z
dc.date.issued2021-05-21
dc.identifier.issn0378-3839en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/187969
dc.description.abstractEnThe dispersive characteristics of unidirectional irregular waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping beach are examined using a highly-resolved laboratory dataset. Cross-spectral analyses are used to determine the cross-shore evolution of (single-valued) dominant wavenumber κ and phase velocity c spectra, and lead to the identification of four different regimes of propagation: I - a linear regime where short waves mostly propagate as free components; II - a shoaling regime where non-linear effects at high harmonics are significant but primary components follow the linear wave dispersion relation; III - a shoaling regime near the mean breaking point location, where amplitude dispersion effects at primary components are important; IV - a surf zone regime, where all components propagate slightly faster than non-dispersive shallow water waves. Bispectral analyses performed onshore of the shoaling region show that the presence of forced energy at high harmonics, which originate from non-linear interactions between triads of frequencies, are responsible for the deviations of wavenumber and phase velocity spectral estimates from predictions by the linear dispersion relation, confirming the findings from previous field-based studies. A Boussinesq approximation of the non-linear energy exchanges between triads is then used to quantify the relative amount of forced energy at high harmonics and explain the differences in dispersion properties observed in the shoaling region between broad and narrow-band spectra. Larger relative amounts of forced energy at high frequencies, which suggest more efficient non-linear energy transfers, are found to be associated with larger deviations of dominant κ and c from predictions by the linear dispersion relation.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.rightsAttribution 3.0 United States*
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/*
dc.title.enDispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103917en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
dc.subject.halInformatique [cs]/Modélisation et simulationen_US
dc.subject.halInformatique [cs]/Traitement du signal et de l'imageen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographieen_US
dc.description.sponsorshipEuropeHydralab IV project, EC Contract 261520en_US
bordeaux.journalCoastal Engineeringen_US
bordeaux.page103917en_US
bordeaux.volume167en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-03215337
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccCC BYen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Coastal%20Engineering&rft.date=2021-05-21&rft.volume=167&rft.spage=103917&rft.epage=103917&rft.eissn=0378-3839&rft.issn=0378-3839&rft.au=MARTINS,%20Kevin&BONNETON,%20Philippe&MICHALLET,%20Herve&rft.genre=article


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