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dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorBOUVIER, Clement
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorBALOUIN, Yann
dc.date.accessioned2024-02-05T14:55:11Z
dc.date.available2024-02-05T14:55:11Z
dc.date.issued2019
dc.identifier.issn2077-1312en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/187833
dc.description.abstractEnCoastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considerations using soft submerged breakwater is undeniable, their design has often focused on wave transmission processes across the crest of the structure, overlooking short- to medium-term morphodynamic responses. In this study, we used a time- and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sete, SE France. The hydrodynamic module was calibrated with data collected during a field experiment using three current profilers deployed to capture rip-cell circulation at the edge of the structure. The model showed good agreement with measurements, particularly for the longshore component of the flow (RMSE = 0.07 m/s). Results showed that alongshore differential wave breaking at the edge of the submerged breakwater drove an intense (0.4 m/s) two-dimensional circulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. Simulations indicated that inner-bar rip channel development, which was observed prior to the submerged reef implementation, was inhibited in the lee of the structure as rip-cell circulation across the inner bar disappeared owing to persistently low-energy breaking waves. The cross-shore sandbar dynamics in the lee of the structure were also impacted due to the drastic decrease of the offshore-directed flow over the inner-bar during energetic events. This paper highlights that implementation of a submerged breakwater results in larges changes in nearshore hydrodynamics that, in turn, can affect overall surf zone sandbar behavior.
dc.description.sponsorshipMarier les objectifs de défense côtière avec ceux de la protection du milieu naturel grâce aux dunes sableuses - ANR-17-CE01-0014en_US
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.rightsAttribution 3.0 United States*
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/*
dc.subject.enSETE BEACH
dc.subject.enWAVE
dc.subject.ensubmerged breakwater
dc.subject.enmorphodynamic model
dc.subject.ensandbar dynamics
dc.subject.enLOW-CRESTED STRUCTURES
dc.subject.enSHORELINE RESPONSE
dc.subject.enMORPHOLOGICAL RESPONSE
dc.subject.enSTORM EVENTS
dc.subject.enCURRENTS
dc.subject.enCOAST
dc.subject.enQUANTIFICATION
dc.subject.enHISTORY
dc.title.enModeling the Impact of the Implementation of a Submerged Structure on Surf Zone Sandbar Dynamics
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/jmse7040117en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géologie appliquéeen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
dc.subject.halSciences de l'ingénieur [physics]/Génie civil/Construction hydrauliqueen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Marine Science and Engineeringen_US
bordeaux.page117en_US
bordeaux.volume7en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issue14en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-02380716
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Marine%20Science%20and%20Engineering&rft.date=2019&rft.volume=7&rft.issue=14&rft.spage=117&rft.epage=117&rft.eissn=2077-1312&rft.issn=2077-1312&rft.au=BOUVIER,%20Clement&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&BALOUIN,%20Yann&rft.genre=article


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