Modeling the Impact of the Implementation of a Submerged Structure on Surf Zone Sandbar Dynamics
| dc.rights.license | open | en_US |
| hal.structure.identifier | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM] | |
| dc.contributor.author | BOUVIER, Clement | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | CASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520 | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM] | |
| dc.contributor.author | BALOUIN, Yann | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-02-05T14:55:11Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-02-05T14:55:11Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2019 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 2077-1312 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/187833 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | Coastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considerations using soft submerged breakwater is undeniable, their design has often focused on wave transmission processes across the crest of the structure, overlooking short- to medium-term morphodynamic responses. In this study, we used a time- and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sete, SE France. The hydrodynamic module was calibrated with data collected during a field experiment using three current profilers deployed to capture rip-cell circulation at the edge of the structure. The model showed good agreement with measurements, particularly for the longshore component of the flow (RMSE = 0.07 m/s). Results showed that alongshore differential wave breaking at the edge of the submerged breakwater drove an intense (0.4 m/s) two-dimensional circulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. Simulations indicated that inner-bar rip channel development, which was observed prior to the submerged reef implementation, was inhibited in the lee of the structure as rip-cell circulation across the inner bar disappeared owing to persistently low-energy breaking waves. The cross-shore sandbar dynamics in the lee of the structure were also impacted due to the drastic decrease of the offshore-directed flow over the inner-bar during energetic events. This paper highlights that implementation of a submerged breakwater results in larges changes in nearshore hydrodynamics that, in turn, can affect overall surf zone sandbar behavior. | |
| dc.description.sponsorship | Marier les objectifs de défense côtière avec ceux de la protection du milieu naturel grâce aux dunes sableuses - ANR-17-CE01-0014 | en_US |
| dc.language.iso | EN | en_US |
| dc.rights | Attribution 3.0 United States | * |
| dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/ | * |
| dc.subject.en | SETE BEACH | |
| dc.subject.en | WAVE | |
| dc.subject.en | submerged breakwater | |
| dc.subject.en | morphodynamic model | |
| dc.subject.en | sandbar dynamics | |
| dc.subject.en | LOW-CRESTED STRUCTURES | |
| dc.subject.en | SHORELINE RESPONSE | |
| dc.subject.en | MORPHOLOGICAL RESPONSE | |
| dc.subject.en | STORM EVENTS | |
| dc.subject.en | CURRENTS | |
| dc.subject.en | COAST | |
| dc.subject.en | QUANTIFICATION | |
| dc.subject.en | HISTORY | |
| dc.title.en | Modeling the Impact of the Implementation of a Submerged Structure on Surf Zone Sandbar Dynamics | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.3390/jmse7040117 | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géologie appliquée | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnement | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Sciences de l'ingénieur [physics]/Génie civil/Construction hydraulique | en_US |
| bordeaux.journal | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering | en_US |
| bordeaux.page | 117 | en_US |
| bordeaux.volume | 7 | en_US |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
| bordeaux.issue | 14 | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | en_US |
| bordeaux.team | METHYS | en_US |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | en_US |
| bordeaux.inpress | non | en_US |
| bordeaux.import.source | hal | |
| hal.identifier | hal-02380716 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | en_US |
| hal.audience | Internationale | en_US |
| hal.export | false | |
| workflow.import.source | hal | |
| dc.rights.cc | Pas de Licence CC | en_US |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Marine%20Science%20and%20Engineering&rft.date=2019&rft.volume=7&rft.issue=14&rft.spage=117&rft.epage=117&rft.eissn=2077-1312&rft.issn=2077-1312&rft.au=BOUVIER,%20Clement&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&BALOUIN,%20Yann&rft.genre=article |
