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Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
dc.contributor.authorBLENKINSOPP, C. E.
dc.contributor.authorBAYLE, P. M.
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
dc.contributor.authorFOSS, O. W.
dc.contributor.authorALMEIDA, L. -P.
dc.contributor.authorKAMINSKY, G. M.
dc.contributor.authorSCHIMMELS, S.
dc.contributor.authorMATSUMOTO, H.
dc.date.accessioned2023-04-28T12:26:16Z
dc.date.available2023-04-28T12:26:16Z
dc.date.issued2022-09-01
dc.identifier.issn0378-3839en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/173223
dc.description.abstractEnThe effects of climate change and sea level rise, combined with overpopulation are leading to ever-increasing stress on coastal regions throughout the world. As a result, there is increased interest in sustainable and adaptable methods of coastal protection. Dynamic cobble berm revetments consist of a gravel berm installed close to the high tide shoreline on a sand beach and are designed to mimic naturally occurring composite beaches (dissipative sandy beaches with a gravel berm around the high tide shoreline). Existing approaches to predict wave runup on sand or pure gravel beaches have very poor skill for composite beaches and this restricts the ability of coastal engineers to assess flood risks at existing sites or design new protection structures. This paper presents high-resolution measurements of wave runup from five field and large-scale laboratory experiments investigating composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. These data demonstrated that as the swash zone transitions from the fronting sand beach to the gravel berm, the short-wave component of significant swash height rapidly increases and can dominate over the infragravity component. When the berm toe is submerged at high tide, it was found that wave runup is strongly controlled by the water depth at the toe of the gravel berm. This is due to the decoupling of the significant wave height at the berm toe from the offshore wave conditions due to the dissipative nature of the fronting sand beach. This insight, combined with new methods to predict wave setup and infragravity wave dissipation on composite beaches is used to develop the first composite beach/dynamic revetment-specific methodologies for predicting wave runup.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enWave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments
dc.title.alternativeCoastal Engineeringen_US
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104148en_US
dc.subject.halSciences de l'environnementen_US
bordeaux.journalCoastal Engineeringen_US
bordeaux.volume176en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
hal.exportfalse
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Coastal%20Engineering&rft.date=2022-09-01&rft.volume=176&rft.eissn=0378-3839&rft.issn=0378-3839&rft.au=BLENKINSOPP,%20C.%20E.&BAYLE,%20P.%20M.&MARTINS,%20Kevin&FOSS,%20O.%20W.&ALMEIDA,%20L.%20-P.&rft.genre=article


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