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Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
dc.contributor.authorTISSIER, Marion
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
dc.contributor.authorMICHALLET, Hervé
dc.contributor.authorRUESSINK, B. Gerben
dc.date.accessioned2024-06-17T12:37:44Z
dc.date.available2024-06-17T12:37:44Z
dc.date.issued2015-10-20
dc.identifier.issn2169-9275en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/200506
dc.description.abstractEnThe cross-shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two high-resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked during their onshore propagation and their characteristics, including celerity, are estimated. The intrawave variability in celerity is low in the shoaling zone but increases strongly after breaking. It is maximum when the infragravity-wave height to water depth ratio is the largest, that is to say close to the shoreline. There the observed range of individual wave celerity can be as large as the mean celerity value. This variability can be largely explained by the variations in water depth and velocity induced by the infragravity waves. The differences in celerity are such that they lead to the merging of the waves in the inner surf zone for most of the wave conditions considered. Again, the location at which the first waves start merging strongly correlates with the infragravity-wave height to water depth ratio. The consequences of these findings for celerity-based depth-inversion techniques are finally discussed. Surprisingly, accounting for the infragravity-wave modulation of the velocity field in the celerity estimate does not significantly improve depth estimation in the surf zone. However, it is shown that the occurrence of bore merging decreases significantly the coherence of the wavefield in the surf zone. This loss of coherence could hamper celerity estimation from pixel intensity time series and explain, at least partly, the relatively poor performance of depth-inversion techniques in the inner surf zone.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.rights.urihttp://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/licences/copyright/
dc.title.enInfragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1002/2015JC010708en_US
dc.subject.halPhysique [physics]/Mécanique [physics]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]en_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Geophysical Research. Oceansen_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-01229523
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Geophysical%20Research.%20Oceans&rft.date=2015-10-20&rft.eissn=2169-9275&rft.issn=2169-9275&rft.au=TISSIER,%20Marion&BONNETON,%20Philippe&MICHALLET,%20Herv%C3%A9&RUESSINK,%20B.%20Gerben&rft.genre=article


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