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Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorDUBARBIER, Benjamin
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
hal.structure.identifierInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] [IMAU]
dc.contributor.authorRUESSINK, Gerben
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARIEU, Vincent
dc.date.accessioned2024-05-29T11:09:24Z
dc.date.available2024-05-29T11:09:24Z
dc.date.issued2017-06-16
dc.identifier.issn0094-8276en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/200127
dc.description.abstractEnAccretionary downstate beach sequence is a key element of observed nearshore morphological variability along sandy coasts. We present and analyze the first numerical simulation of such a sequence using a process-based morphodynamic model that solves the coupling between waves, depth-integrated currents, and sediment transport. The simulation evolves from an alongshore uniform barred beach (storm profile) to an almost featureless shore-welded terrace (summer profile) through the highly alongshore variable detached crescentic bar and transverse bar/rip system states. A global analysis of the full sequence allows determining the varying contributions of the different hydro-sedimentary processes. Sediment transport driven by orbital velocity skewness is critical to the overall onshore sandbar migration, while gravitational downslope sediment transport acts as a damping term inhibiting further channel growth enforced by rip flow circulation. Accurate morphological diffusivity and inclusion of orbital velocity skewness opens new perspectives in terms of morphodynamic modeling of real beaches.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enMechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1002/2017GL073094en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géomorphologieen_US
bordeaux.journalGeophysical Research Lettersen_US
bordeaux.page5645 - 5654en_US
bordeaux.volume44en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issue11en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-01598303
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
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