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Wave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions

hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorNICOLAE LERMA, Alexandre
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorPEDREROS, Rodrigo
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorSENECHAL, Nadia
IDREF: 077248430
dc.date.accessioned2024-05-14T13:23:23Z
dc.date.available2024-05-14T13:23:23Z
dc.date.created2015-12-10
dc.date.issued2016-03-06
dc.identifier.issn0749-0208
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/199831
dc.description.abstractEnThis study assessed the ability of the SWASH model to reproduce wave set-up and run-up on complex realistic 3D morphology during highly dissipative stormy conditions, based on the most energetic field data set reported in the bibliography (ECORS-Truc Vert’08 beach experiment). Several approaches (1D and 2D) and forcing methods (spectral and parametric) were applied. For the three days of high-energy conditions caused by the Johanna storm, wave set-up was accurately reproduced, with simulation performance in 1D and 2D at R² = 0.66, 0.81 respectively for all data considered; RMSE = 0.13 m, 0.08 m; bias = 0.06, -0.02. Run-up in the 1D configuration is significantly overestimated while in 2D, the reproduction of run-up using spectral forcing was very accurate with R² = 0.73; RMSE = 0.19; bias = 0.04, underlining the role of spectral frequency and directional spread to precisely reproduce the surf zone processes during a storm on a complex barred beach. The maximum estimated values for set-up, run-up and spatial variability of run-up are comparable with results from previous studies, even though significantly higher offshore wave conditions. These results support the hypothesis of a run-up saturation signature in dissipative contexts, mainly influenced by extreme offshore wave conditions.
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherCoastal Education and Research Foundation
dc.subject.enSurf zone process
dc.subject.en3D bathymetry
dc.subject.enSWASH model
dc.subject.enwave set-up
dc.subject.enrun-up
dc.title.enWave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.2112/SI75-177.1
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géomorphologie
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère
bordeaux.journalJournal of Coastal Researchen_US
bordeaux.page882-886
bordeaux.volumeProceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia).
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issueNo. 75
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeaux
bordeaux.institutionCNRS
bordeaux.peerReviewedoui
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-01256646
hal.version1
hal.popularnon
hal.audienceInternationale
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Coastal%20Research&rft.date=2016-03-06&rft.volume=Proceedings%20of%20the%2014th%20International%20Coastal%20Symposium%20(Sydney,%20Australia).&rft.issue=No.%2075&rft.spage=882-886&rft.epage=882-886&rft.eissn=0749-0208&rft.issn=0749-0208&rft.au=NICOLAE%20LERMA,%20Alexandre&PEDREROS,%20Rodrigo&SENECHAL,%20Nadia&rft.genre=article


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