Mostrar el registro sencillo del ítem

A nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements

hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
hal.structure.identifierInstitut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux [IMB]
dc.contributor.authorLANNES, David
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kévin
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] [LEGI ]
hal.structure.identifierCentre National de la Recherche Scientifique [CNRS]
hal.structure.identifierUniversité Grenoble Alpes [2016-2019] [UGA [2016-2019]]
hal.structure.identifierÉcole nationale supérieure de génie industriel [Grenoble INP ENSGI]
dc.contributor.authorMICHALLET, Hervé
dc.date.accessioned2024-04-04T03:06:14Z
dc.date.available2024-04-04T03:06:14Z
dc.date.issued2018-08
dc.identifier.issn0378-3839
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/193317
dc.description.abstractEnWe present the derivation of a nonlinear weakly dispersive formula to reconstruct , from pressure measurements, the surface elevation of nonlinear waves propagating in shallow water. The formula is simple and easy to use as it is local in time and only involves first and second order time derivatives of the measured pressure. This novel approach is evaluated on laboratory and field data of shoaling waves near the breaking point. Unlike linear methods, the nonlinear formula is able to reproduce at the individual wave scale the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear waves close to the breaking point. Improvements in the frequency domain are also observed as the new method is able to accurately predict surface wave elevation spectra over four harmonics. The nonlinear weakly dispersive formula derived in this paper represents an economic and easy to use alternative to direct wave elevation measurement methods (e.g. acoustic surface tracking and LiDAR scanning)..
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherElsevier
dc.subject.ennonhydrostatic
dc.subject.ensurface wave
dc.subject.enweakly dispersive
dc.subject.enAcoustic Surface Tracking
dc.subject.enLiDAR
dc.subject.enshallow water
dc.subject.enmeasurements
dc.subject.ennonlinear
dc.title.enA nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements
dc.typeArticle de revue
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.04.005
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère
dc.subject.halSciences de l'ingénieur [physics]/Mécanique [physics.med-ph]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]
bordeaux.journalCoastal Engineering
bordeaux.page1 - 8
bordeaux.volume138
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesInstitut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux (IMB) - UMR 5251*
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeaux
bordeaux.institutionBordeaux INP
bordeaux.institutionCNRS
bordeaux.peerReviewedoui
hal.identifierhal-01778147
hal.version1
hal.popularnon
hal.audienceInternationale
hal.origin.linkhttps://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr//hal-01778147v1
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Coastal%20Engineering&rft.date=2018-08&rft.volume=138&rft.spage=1%20-%208&rft.epage=1%20-%208&rft.eissn=0378-3839&rft.issn=0378-3839&rft.au=BONNETON,%20Philippe&LANNES,%20David&MARTINS,%20K%C3%A9vin&MICHALLET,%20Herv%C3%A9&rft.genre=article


Archivos en el ítem

ArchivosTamañoFormatoVer

No hay archivos asociados a este ítem.

Este ítem aparece en la(s) siguiente(s) colección(ones)

Mostrar el registro sencillo del ítem