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Hydrodynamics on a Rocky Shore under Moderate-energy Wave Conditions

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorLAVAUD, Laura
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorPEZERAT, Marc
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorCOULOMBIER, Thibault
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorBERTIN, Xavier
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
dc.date.accessioned2024-04-03T13:56:01Z
dc.date.available2024-04-03T13:56:01Z
dc.date.issued2020-05-01
dc.identifier.issn0749-0208en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/189168
dc.description.abstractEnWave hydrodynamics on rocky shore platforms can be different from that on sandy beaches, namely due to a higher bed roughness. This study investigates short and infragravity waves transformation on a A-type rocky shore platform under moderate-energy wave conditions. Seven pressure sensors and two current meters were deployed along a cross-shore transect topped by a steep sandy beach. Data analysis complemented with a 1D model of energy flux conservation for short and infragravity waves reveals that commonly used value for the bottom drag coefficient has to be multiplied by 20 to match the field observations. Incoming infragravity waves suffer a strong dissipation at low tide due to bottom friction, while a slight shoreward increase is observed at high tide. Further analysis shows that, at this tidal stage, infragravity waves are almost fully reflected.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enHydrodynamics on a Rocky Shore under Moderate-energy Wave Conditions
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.2112/SI95-284.1en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Coastal Researchen_US
bordeaux.page1473en_US
bordeaux.volume95en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issuesp1en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-02940969
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Coastal%20Research&rft.date=2020-05-01&rft.volume=95&rft.issue=sp1&rft.spage=1473&rft.epage=1473&rft.eissn=0749-0208&rft.issn=0749-0208&rft.au=LAVAUD,%20Laura&PEZERAT,%20Marc&COULOMBIER,%20Thibault&BERTIN,%20Xavier&MARTINS,%20Kevin&rft.genre=article


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