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Surf Zone Wave Measurements from Lidar Scanners: Analysis of Non-hydrostatic Processes

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
hal.structure.identifierUniversity of Bath [Bath]
dc.contributor.authorBAYLE, Paul
hal.structure.identifierUniversity of Bath [Bath]
dc.contributor.authorBLENKINSOPP, Chris
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMOURAGUES, Arthur
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] [LEGI]
dc.contributor.authorMICHALLET, Hervé
dc.date.accessioned2024-04-03T13:39:32Z
dc.date.available2024-04-03T13:39:32Z
dc.date.issued2020-05-01
dc.identifier.issn0749-0208en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/189164
dc.description.abstractEnLidar scanners provide the ability to directly measure the free surface of breaking waves, however it is generally necessary to mount the scanners above the water surface on a nearshore structure such as a jetty. Pressure sensors on the other hand are easy to deploy and remain the simplest alternative to collect field measurements of surf zone waves, the free surface being generally reconstructed from the linear transfer function. Recent studies have highlighted the limitations of this traditional approach to describe geometric properties of non-linear waves. In the surf zone, this issue remains largely overlooked, principally due to the absence of direct measurements of the free surface elevation. The present contribution addresses this gap by using data collected by collocated sub-surface pressure sensors and lidar during the DynaRev set of experiments, which were performed at the prototype scale. During these experiments, a 1:15 sandy beach was exposed to irregular waves for 20 hours, and reached a quasi-equilibrium state at the end of the test phase, exhibiting a bar-terrace profile. In the inner surf zone, errors between 10% and 40% are obtained on second and third-order wave parameters with the classic transfer function based on linear wave theory. Only a recently developed non-linear weakly dispersive reconstruction method is found to be capable of describing wave-by-wave parameters and thus the root-mean square wave height Hrms in the surf zone. This has important implications for the estimation of wave height distributions based on pressure data, which are illustrated here, and calls for a reanalysis of old datasets and reconsideration of hypotheses based on pressure transducer datasets.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enSurf Zone Wave Measurements from Lidar Scanners: Analysis of Non-hydrostatic Processes
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.2112/SI95-231.1en_US
dc.subject.halPhysique [physics]/Mécanique [physics]/Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]en_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Coastal Researchen_US
bordeaux.page1189en_US
bordeaux.volume95en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issuesp1en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-03070450
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
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