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Observation and Modeling of the Equilibrium Slope Response of a High-Energy Meso-Macrotidal Sandy Beach

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
dc.contributor.authorLABARTHE, Carla
IDREF: 257513205
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
dc.contributor.authorMARIEU, Vincent
dc.contributor.authorGARLAN, Thierry
dc.contributor.authorBUJAN, Stéphane
dc.date.accessioned2024-02-14T10:29:58Z
dc.date.available2024-02-14T10:29:58Z
dc.date.issued2023-03-09
dc.identifier.issn2077-1312en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188123
dc.description.abstractEnBeach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast beach slope variability from the time scales of days to years at the high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach of Truc Vert, southwest France. We use 9 years of bimonthly beach surveys to compute beach slope time series at different elevations. Results show that beach slope exhibits an equilibrium response with contrasting behaviors along two distinct areas of the beach profile. From 0 to 2 m above mean sea level, which is located under the berm crest, a slope response predominantly at the storm time scale is observed. The beach slope steepens under low energy waves, with the equilibrium model explaining up to 40% of the observed beach slope variability. In contrast, from 2.5 to 4 m above mean sea level, which is above the berm crest, the beach slope steepens under high-energy waves. Within this region of the beach profile, the response time scale increases upwards from seasonal (~2.5 m) to seasonal (~4 m), with the model explaining up to 65% of the observed beach slope variability. Such behaviors are found to be enforced by the berm dynamics developing from the end of the winter to early autumn, providing new perspectives to model and predict beach slope on sandy beaches.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.subject.enbeach slope equilibrium model berm seasonal response storm-scale response
dc.subject.enbeach slope
dc.subject.enequilibrium model
dc.subject.enberm
dc.subject.enseasonal response
dc.subject.enstorm-scale response
dc.title.enObservation and Modeling of the Equilibrium Slope Response of a High-Energy Meso-Macrotidal Sandy Beach
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/jmse11030584en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Marine Science and Engineeringen_US
bordeaux.page584en_US
bordeaux.volume11en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issue3en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-04266281
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccCC BYen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Marine%20Science%20and%20Engineering&rft.date=2023-03-09&rft.volume=11&rft.issue=3&rft.spage=584&rft.epage=584&rft.eissn=2077-1312&rft.issn=2077-1312&rft.au=LABARTHE,%20Carla&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&MARIEU,%20Vincent&GARLAN,%20Thierry&BUJAN,%20St%C3%A9phane&rft.genre=article


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