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Simulating storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral model: current issues and a pragmatic solution

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorPEZERAT, M.
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorBERTIN, X.
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorMENGUAL, B.
hal.structure.identifierArtelia Eau & Environnement [Echirolles]
dc.contributor.authorHAMM, L.
dc.date.accessioned2024-02-12T08:29:41Z
dc.date.available2024-02-12T08:29:41Z
dc.date.issued2021-02
dc.identifier.issn1463-5003en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188025
dc.description.abstractEnShort waves are of key importance for nearshore dynamics, particularly under storms, where they contribute to extreme water levels and drive large morphological changes. Therefore, it is crucial to model accurately the propagation and dissipation of storm waves in the nearshore area. In this paper, field observations collected in contrasted environments and conditions are combined with predictions from a third-generation spectral wave model to evaluate four formulations of wave energy dissipation by depth-induced breaking. The results reveal a substantial over-dissipation of incident wave energy occurring over the continental shelf, resulting in a negative bias on significant wave height reaching up to 50%. To overcome this problem, a breaking coefficient dependent of the local bottom slope is introduced within depth-induced breaking models in order to account for the varying degrees of saturation naturally found in breaking and broken waves. This approach strongly reduces the negative bias observed in the shoreface compared to default parameterizations, yielding significant improvements in the prediction of storm waves. Among the implications of this study, our new parameterization of the breaking coefficient results in systematically increased predictions of the wave setup near the shoreline compared to the default parameterization. This increase reaches a factor 2 for gently sloping beaches.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enSimulating storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral model: current issues and a pragmatic solution
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.ocemod.2020.101737en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
bordeaux.journalOcean Modellingen_US
bordeaux.page101737en_US
bordeaux.volume158en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-03219560
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Ocean%20Modelling&rft.date=2021-02&rft.volume=158&rft.spage=101737&rft.epage=101737&rft.eissn=1463-5003&rft.issn=1463-5003&rft.au=PEZERAT,%20M.&BERTIN,%20X.&MARTINS,%20Kevin&MENGUAL,%20B.&HAMM,%20L.&rft.genre=article


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