Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach
| dc.rights.license | open | en_US |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MARTINS, Kevin | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC] | |
| dc.contributor.author | BONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823 | |
| hal.structure.identifier | Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] [LEGI] | |
| dc.contributor.author | MICHALLET, Herve | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2024-02-07T11:49:22Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2024-02-07T11:49:22Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2021-05-21 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 0378-3839 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/187969 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | The dispersive characteristics of unidirectional irregular waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping beach are examined using a highly-resolved laboratory dataset. Cross-spectral analyses are used to determine the cross-shore evolution of (single-valued) dominant wavenumber κ and phase velocity c spectra, and lead to the identification of four different regimes of propagation: I - a linear regime where short waves mostly propagate as free components; II - a shoaling regime where non-linear effects at high harmonics are significant but primary components follow the linear wave dispersion relation; III - a shoaling regime near the mean breaking point location, where amplitude dispersion effects at primary components are important; IV - a surf zone regime, where all components propagate slightly faster than non-dispersive shallow water waves. Bispectral analyses performed onshore of the shoaling region show that the presence of forced energy at high harmonics, which originate from non-linear interactions between triads of frequencies, are responsible for the deviations of wavenumber and phase velocity spectral estimates from predictions by the linear dispersion relation, confirming the findings from previous field-based studies. A Boussinesq approximation of the non-linear energy exchanges between triads is then used to quantify the relative amount of forced energy at high harmonics and explain the differences in dispersion properties observed in the shoaling region between broad and narrow-band spectra. Larger relative amounts of forced energy at high frequencies, which suggest more efficient non-linear energy transfers, are found to be associated with larger deviations of dominant κ and c from predictions by the linear dispersion relation. | |
| dc.language.iso | EN | en_US |
| dc.rights | Attribution 3.0 United States | * |
| dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/ | * |
| dc.title.en | Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103917 | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Informatique [cs]/Modélisation et simulation | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Informatique [cs]/Traitement du signal et de l'image | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographie | en_US |
| dc.description.sponsorshipEurope | Hydralab IV project, EC Contract 261520 | en_US |
| bordeaux.journal | Coastal Engineering | en_US |
| bordeaux.page | 103917 | en_US |
| bordeaux.volume | 167 | en_US |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | en_US |
| bordeaux.team | METHYS | en_US |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | en_US |
| bordeaux.inpress | non | en_US |
| bordeaux.import.source | hal | |
| hal.identifier | hal-03215337 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.popular | non | en_US |
| hal.audience | Internationale | en_US |
| hal.export | false | |
| workflow.import.source | hal | |
| dc.rights.cc | CC BY | en_US |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Coastal%20Engineering&rft.date=2021-05-21&rft.volume=167&rft.spage=103917&rft.epage=103917&rft.eissn=0378-3839&rft.issn=0378-3839&rft.au=MARTINS,%20Kevin&BONNETON,%20Philippe&MICHALLET,%20Herve&rft.genre=article |
