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Controls of local geology and cross-shore/longshore processes on embayed beach shoreline variability

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierMatrice Extracellulaire et Dynamique Cellulaire - UMR CNRS 7369 [MEDyC]
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorROBINET, Arthur
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorIDIER, Déborah
dc.contributor.authorHARLEY, M.D.
dc.contributor.authorSPLINTER, K.D.
dc.date.accessioned2024-01-23T13:12:51Z
dc.date.available2024-01-23T13:12:51Z
dc.date.issued2020-04
dc.identifier.issn0025-3227en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/187427
dc.description.abstractEn10 Shoreline variability along the 3.6-km long Narrabeen Beach embayment in SE Australia is 11 investigated over a 5-year period. We apply the one-line shoreline change model LX-Shore, 12 which couples longshore and cross-shore processes and can handle complex shoreline 13 planforms, non-erodible emerged headlands and submerged rocky features. The model 14 skilfully reproduces the three dominant modes of shoreline variability, which are by 15 decreasing order of variance: cross-shore migration, rotation, and a third mode possibly 16 related to breathing. Model results confirm previous observations that longshore processes 17 primarily contribute to the rotation and third modes on the timescales of months to seasons, 18 while cross-shore processes control the shoreline migration on shorter timescales from hours 19 (storms) to months. Additional simulations simplifying progressively the bathymetry show 20 how the inherent geology strongly modulates the spatial modes of shoreline variability. The 21 offshore central rocky outcrop is found to limit the rotation. In contrast, the submerged rocky 22 platforms that extend from the headlands enhance the shoreline rotation mode and increase 23 alongshore variability of the cross-shore migration mode, owing to increased alongshore 24 variability in wave exposure. Offshore wave transformation across large-scale submerged 25 rocky features and headland shape are therefore critical to contemporary shoreline dynamics. 26 2
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.subject.enwave 28 transformation 29
dc.subject.encross-shore migration
dc.subject.enrotation
dc.subject.enlocal geology
dc.subject.enshoreline model
dc.subject.en27 Embayed beach
dc.title.enControls of local geology and cross-shore/longshore processes on embayed beach shoreline variability
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.margeo.2020.106118en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographieen_US
bordeaux.journalMarine Geologyen_US
bordeaux.page106118en_US
bordeaux.volume422en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-02506216
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
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