Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events
| dc.rights.license | open | en_US |
| dc.contributor.author | MOURAGUES, Arthur | |
| dc.contributor.author | MARTINS, Kevin | |
| dc.contributor.author | BONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823 | |
| dc.contributor.author | CASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520 | |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2022-11-04T09:10:16Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2022-11-04T09:10:16Z | |
| dc.date.issued | 2022-09-09 | |
| dc.identifier.issn | 0022-3670 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.uri | oai:crossref.org:10.1175/jpo-d-22-0006.1 | |
| dc.identifier.uri | https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/170196 | |
| dc.description.abstractEn | Abstract A wave group-resolving model is used to investigate the driving mechanisms and the spatio-temporal variability of very-low-frequency (VLF) fluctuations of an headland deflection rip, measured during a 4-m oblique wave event. Surf zone eddies (SZE) occurring in the presence of a strongly-sheared longshore current V at a longshore-uniform beach are first modelled. The spectral signature and the variability of SZE are displayed and compared with the literature. The model is then used to explore the dynamics of vorticity in the surf zone and against a headland under energetic oblique wave conditions. The resulting weakly-sheared V is found to host large-scale SZE propagating towards the headland at a speed decreasing seaward. Vorticity animations and spectral diagrams indicate that VLF fluctuations of the deflection rip are driven by the deflection of the upstream SZE. In line with measurements, periods of 40 min to 1 h dominate the spectrum hundreds of meters from the headland at low tide. At high tide, vorticity spectra in the rip are much narrower than in the surf zone, suggesting that the headland enforces the merging of SZE. This mechanism is further analysed using idealized simulations with varying headland lengths, aiming at extending traditional deflection patterns at the VLF scale. Finally, we discuss the existence of a continuum in SZE driving mechanisms, going from fully wave group-driven to both wave group and shear instability-driven SZE for weakly- and strongly-sheared V, respectively. This continuum suggests the importance of wave groups to produce SZE under energetic wave conditions. | |
| dc.language.iso | EN | en_US |
| dc.source | crossref | |
| dc.title.en | Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events | |
| dc.type | Article de revue | en_US |
| dc.identifier.doi | 10.1175/jpo-d-22-0006.1 | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphère | en_US |
| dc.subject.hal | Planète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnement | en_US |
| bordeaux.journal | Journal of Physical Oceanography | en_US |
| bordeaux.volume | 52 | en_US |
| bordeaux.hal.laboratories | EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805 | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | Université de Bordeaux | en_US |
| bordeaux.institution | CNRS | en_US |
| bordeaux.peerReviewed | oui | en_US |
| bordeaux.inpress | non | en_US |
| bordeaux.import.source | dissemin | |
| hal.identifier | hal-03831770 | |
| hal.version | 1 | |
| hal.export | false | |
| workflow.import.source | dissemin | |
| dc.rights.cc | Pas de Licence CC | en_US |
| bordeaux.COinS | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Physical%20Oceanography&rft.date=2022-09-09&rft.volume=52&rft.eissn=0022-3670&rft.issn=0022-3670&rft.au=MOURAGUES,%20Arthur&MARTINS,%20Kevin&BONNETON,%20Philippe&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&rft.genre=article |
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