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Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
dc.contributor.authorMOURAGUES, Arthur
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
IDREF: 059798823
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
dc.date.accessioned2022-11-04T09:10:16Z
dc.date.available2022-11-04T09:10:16Z
dc.date.issued2022-09-09
dc.identifier.issn0022-3670en_US
dc.identifier.urioai:crossref.org:10.1175/jpo-d-22-0006.1
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/170196
dc.description.abstractEnAbstract A wave group-resolving model is used to investigate the driving mechanisms and the spatio-temporal variability of very-low-frequency (VLF) fluctuations of an headland deflection rip, measured during a 4-m oblique wave event. Surf zone eddies (SZE) occurring in the presence of a strongly-sheared longshore current V at a longshore-uniform beach are first modelled. The spectral signature and the variability of SZE are displayed and compared with the literature. The model is then used to explore the dynamics of vorticity in the surf zone and against a headland under energetic oblique wave conditions. The resulting weakly-sheared V is found to host large-scale SZE propagating towards the headland at a speed decreasing seaward. Vorticity animations and spectral diagrams indicate that VLF fluctuations of the deflection rip are driven by the deflection of the upstream SZE. In line with measurements, periods of 40 min to 1 h dominate the spectrum hundreds of meters from the headland at low tide. At high tide, vorticity spectra in the rip are much narrower than in the surf zone, suggesting that the headland enforces the merging of SZE. This mechanism is further analysed using idealized simulations with varying headland lengths, aiming at extending traditional deflection patterns at the VLF scale. Finally, we discuss the existence of a continuum in SZE driving mechanisms, going from fully wave group-driven to both wave group and shear instability-driven SZE for weakly- and strongly-sheared V, respectively. This continuum suggests the importance of wave groups to produce SZE under energetic wave conditions.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.sourcecrossref
dc.title.enHeadland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1175/jpo-d-22-0006.1en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Interfaces continentales, environnementen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Physical Oceanographyen_US
bordeaux.volume52en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcedissemin
hal.identifierhal-03831770
hal.version1
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcedissemin
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Physical%20Oceanography&rft.date=2022-09-09&rft.volume=52&rft.eissn=0022-3670&rft.issn=0022-3670&rft.au=MOURAGUES,%20Arthur&MARTINS,%20Kevin&BONNETON,%20Philippe&CASTELLE,%20Bruno&rft.genre=article


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