SENECHAL, Nadia; COCO, Giovanni; PLANT, Nathaniel; BRYAN, Karin R.; BROWN, Jenna; MACMAHAN, Jamie H. M.

doi:10.1029/2018jc014109

Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]

COCO, Giovanni

PLANT, Nathaniel

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Article de revue

Ce document a été publié dans

Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans. 2018-08-28, vol. 123, n° 9, p. 6800-6817

Résumé en anglais

Video measurements of runup were collected at low tide along several profiles covering an alongshore distance of 500 m. The morphology displayed a complex shape with a shoreline sandwave in the lower beach face of about 250 m long mirrored in the inner sandbar. Wave conditions were stationary and moderate (offshore height of 2 m and peak period of nearly 13 s) but yet dissipative. Runup energy was dominated by infragravity frequencies. Alongshore variations in runup (by a factor up to 3) observed both in the incident and infragravity bands were much higher than reported previously (e.g., Guedes et al., 2012, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.08.022; Ruggiero et al., 2004, https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160) while the alongshore variations in other environmental parameters (e.g., foreshore beach slope) appear to be much lower. Our data suggest that the beach morphology in the inner surf zone plays a crucial role by inducing rapid and significant modification in the incident wave pattern and the alongshore coherence length scales were consistent with the typical alongshore length scale of the morphology.< Réduire

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https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/199783

DOI

http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2018jc014109

Unités de recherche

EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805

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Field observations of alongshore runup variability under dissipative conditions in presence of a shoreline sandwave

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