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Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorBERTIN, Xavier
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorMARTINS, Kevin
hal.structure.identifierDeltares system
dc.contributor.authorDE BAKKER, Anouk
hal.structure.identifierLaboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint-Venant / Saint-Venant laboratory for Hydraulics [LHSV]
dc.contributor.authorCHATAIGNER, Teddy
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorGUÉRIN, Thomas
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorCOULOMBIER, Thibault
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorVIRON, Olivier
dc.date.accessioned2024-03-27T09:31:29Z
dc.date.available2024-03-27T09:31:29Z
dc.date.issued2020
dc.identifier.issn2169-9275en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/189001
dc.description.abstractEnThis study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February 2017), characterized by incident short waves of significant heights reaching 9.5 m and peak periods reaching 22 s. Data analysis reveals the development of exceptionally large infragravity waves, with significant heights reaching 1.85 m close to shore. Field observations are complemented by numerical modeling with XBeach, which well reproduces the development of such infragravity waves. Model results reveal that infragravity waves were generated mainly through the bound wave mechanism, enhanced by the development of a phase lag with the shortwave energy envelope. Spectral analysis of the free surface elevation shows the generation of superharmonic and subharmonic infragravity waves, the latter dominating the free surface elevation variance close to shore. Modeling results suggest that subharmonic infragravity waves result, at least partly, from infragravity‐wave merging, promoted by the combination of free and bound infragravity waves propagating across a several kilometer‐wide surf zone. Due to the steeper slope of the upper part of the beach profile, observed and modeled reflection coefficients under moderate‐energy show a strong tidal modulation, with a weak reflection at low tide (R2<0.2) and a full reflection at high tide (R2∼1.0). Under storm waves, the observed reflection coefficients remain unusually high for a dissipative beach (R2∼0.5−1.0), which is explained by the development of subharmonic infragravity waves with frequencies around 0.005 Hz, too long to suffer a substantial dissipation.
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.title.enEnergy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1029/2019JC015714en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Géophysique [physics.geo-ph]en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Sciences de la Terre/Océanographieen_US
bordeaux.journalJournal of Geophysical Research. Oceansen_US
bordeaux.pagee2019JC015714en_US
bordeaux.volume125en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.issue5en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-02563121
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
bordeaux.COinSctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&amp;rft.jtitle=Journal%20of%20Geophysical%20Research.%20Oceans&amp;rft.date=2020&amp;rft.volume=125&amp;rft.issue=5&amp;rft.spage=e2019JC015714&amp;rft.epage=e2019JC015714&amp;rft.eissn=2169-9275&amp;rft.issn=2169-9275&amp;rft.au=BERTIN,%20Xavier&amp;MARTINS,%20Kevin&amp;DE%20BAKKER,%20Anouk&amp;CHATAIGNER,%20Teddy&amp;GU%C3%89RIN,%20Thomas&amp;rft.genre=article


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