BONNETON, Philippe; LANNES, David; MARTINS, Kévin; MICHALLET, Hervé

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.04.005

Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]

LANNES, David

Institut de Mathématiques de Bordeaux [IMB]

MARTINS, Kévin
LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]

Langue

Article de revue

Ce document a été publié dans

Coastal Engineering. 2018-08, vol. 138, p. 1 - 8

Résumé en anglais

We present the derivation of a nonlinear weakly dispersive formula to reconstruct , from pressure measurements, the surface elevation of nonlinear waves propagating in shallow water. The formula is simple and easy to use as it is local in time and only involves first and second order time derivatives of the measured pressure. This novel approach is evaluated on laboratory and field data of shoaling waves near the breaking point. Unlike linear methods, the nonlinear formula is able to reproduce at the individual wave scale the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear waves close to the breaking point. Improvements in the frequency domain are also observed as the new method is able to accurately predict surface wave elevation spectra over four harmonics. The nonlinear weakly dispersive formula derived in this paper represents an economic and easy to use alternative to direct wave elevation measurement methods (e.g. acoustic surface tracking and LiDAR scanning)..< Réduire

Mots clés en anglais

nonhydrostatic

surface wave

weakly dispersive

Acoustic Surface Tracking

LiDAR

shallow water

measurements

nonlinear

URI

https://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188825

DOI

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.04.005

Unités de recherche

EPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805

Voir/Ouvrir

Métadonnées

Partager cette publication !

Licence d’utilisation du document

A nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements

Langue

Ce document a été publié dans

Résumé en anglais

Mots clés en anglais

URI

DOI

Unités de recherche