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Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

dc.rights.licenseopenen_US
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorBERTIN, Xavier
hal.structure.identifierDepartment of Physical Geography
dc.contributor.authorDE BAKKER, Anouk
hal.structure.identifierDELTARES [DELTARES]
dc.contributor.authorVAN DONGEREN, Ap
dc.contributor.authorCOCO, Giovanni
hal.structure.identifierAltran Ouest, Atlantide
dc.contributor.authorANDRÉ, Gaël
hal.structure.identifierInstitut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer [IFREMER]
dc.contributor.authorARDHUIN, Fabrice
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorBONNETON, Philippe
hal.structure.identifierGéosciences Montpellier
dc.contributor.authorBOUCHETTE, Frederic
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorCASTELLE, Bruno
IDREF: 087596520
hal.structure.identifierInstitut de Physique du Globe de Paris [IPGP]
dc.contributor.authorCRAWFORD, Wayne
dc.contributor.authorDAVIDSON, Mark
hal.structure.identifierInstitut de Physique du Globe de Paris [IPGP]
dc.contributor.authorDEEN, Martha
hal.structure.identifierLittoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique [LETG - Brest]
dc.contributor.authorDODET, Guillaume
hal.structure.identifierLIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés [LIENSs]
dc.contributor.authorGUERIN, Thomas
dc.contributor.authorINCH, Kris
hal.structure.identifierService Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine [SHOM]
dc.contributor.authorLECKLER, Fabien
dc.contributor.authorMCCALL, Robert
hal.structure.identifierBureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières [BRGM]
dc.contributor.authorMULLER, Héloïse
hal.structure.identifierUniversity of Florida [Gainesville] [UF]
dc.contributor.authorOLABARRIETA, Maitane
hal.structure.identifierUnesco [UNESCO]
dc.contributor.authorROELVINK, Dano
hal.structure.identifierInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] [IMAU]
dc.contributor.authorRUESSINK, Gerben
hal.structure.identifierInstitut méditerranéen d'océanologie [MIO]
dc.contributor.authorSOUS, Damien
hal.structure.identifierInstitut de Physique du Globe de Paris [IPGP]
dc.contributor.authorSTUTZMANN, Eléonore
hal.structure.identifierEnvironnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques [EPOC]
dc.contributor.authorTISSIER, Marion
dc.date.accessioned2024-03-13T15:02:56Z
dc.date.available2024-03-13T15:02:56Z
dc.date.issued2018-02
dc.identifier.issn0012-8252en_US
dc.identifier.urihttps://oskar-bordeaux.fr/handle/20.500.12278/188789
dc.description.abstractEnInfragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated “short waves” (typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1–10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently sloping beaches, IG waves can dissipate a substantial amount of energy through depth-limited breaking. When the bottom is very rough, such as in coral reef environments, a substantial amount of energy can be dissipated through bottom friction. IG wave energy that is not dissipated is reflected seaward, predominantly for the lowest IG frequencies and on steep bottom slopes. This reflection of the lowest IG frequencies can result in the development of standing (also known as stationary) waves. Reflected IG waves can be refractively trapped so that quasi-periodic along-shore patterns, also referred to as edge waves, can develop. IG waves have a large range of implications in the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of coastal zones. For example, they can modulate current velocities in rip channels and strongly influence cross-shore and longshore mixing. On sandy beaches, IG waves can strongly impact the water table and associated groundwater flows. On gently sloping beaches and especially under storm conditions, IG waves can dominate cross-shore sediment transport, generally promoting offshore transport inside the surfzone. Under storm conditions, IG waves can also induce overwash and eventually promote dune erosion and barrier breaching. In tidal inlets, IG waves can propagate into the back-barrier lagoon during the flood phase and induce large modulations of currents and sediment transport. Their effect appears to be smaller during the ebb phase, due to blocking by countercurrents, particularly in shallow systems. On coral and rocky reefs, IG waves can dominate over short-waves and control the hydro-sedimentary dynamics over the reef flat and in the lagoon. In harbors and semi-enclosed basins, free IG waves can be amplified by resonance and induce large seiches (resonant oscillations). Lastly, free IG waves that are generated in the nearshore can cross oceans and they can also explain the development of the Earth's “hum” (background free oscillations of the solid earth).
dc.language.isoENen_US
dc.subject.enInfragravity waves
dc.subject.enBound wave
dc.subject.enDissipation
dc.subject.enReflection
dc.subject.enSediment transport
dc.subject.enBarrier breaching
dc.subject.enSeiche
dc.subject.enEarth Hum
dc.title.enInfragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
dc.typeArticle de revueen_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.earscirev.2018.01.002en_US
dc.subject.halPlanète et Univers [physics]/Océan, Atmosphèreen_US
bordeaux.journalEarth-Science Reviewsen_US
bordeaux.page774 - 799en_US
bordeaux.volume177en_US
bordeaux.hal.laboratoriesEPOC : Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - UMR 5805en_US
bordeaux.institutionUniversité de Bordeauxen_US
bordeaux.institutionCNRSen_US
bordeaux.teamMETHYSen_US
bordeaux.peerReviewedouien_US
bordeaux.inpressnonen_US
bordeaux.import.sourcehal
hal.identifierhal-01731110
hal.version1
hal.popularnonen_US
hal.audienceInternationaleen_US
hal.exportfalse
workflow.import.sourcehal
dc.rights.ccPas de Licence CCen_US
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